Seven Ways to Improve Your Fibre Photos

Want to improve your knit, crochet, or other fibre art photography? Here are some ideas.

1. Read your camera manual.

I will probably harp on this in at least 50% of the posts I write about photography. That's because it's really, really important. If you know how your camera works, you have a much better chance of making it do what you want, when you want. You also won't waste valuable time (and possibly valuable light) trying to figure out if and where you can change a particular setting, or doing excessive trial and error in hopes of somehow getting the shot you want. Don't understand something in your manual? Google it. You never know when you'll need that piece of knowledge.

2. Work with your light.

Photography is all about light. If you don't work with your light, your photo will suffer for it--and this is as true for product photography as it is for art photography. Unless you're well-versed in the use of artificial lighting, your best bet is probably to stick with natural light. Although an overcast day might not give you beautiful blue skies in the background, it will provide you with soft, diffused light. This light is almost universally flattering. It might be a bit flat for an artistic shot, but it'll do very nicely for taking a pattern photo.

On the other hand, direct sunlight can be more difficult to work with (it certainly can be done, but it requires some experience, and often the use of fill flash and/or auxiliary equipment). If you must take photos on a sunny day, try positioning your subject in the shade, just at the edge, so the subject gets some softer light. If your subject is still suffering from hard shadows or a dark face, this is a time when you actually should use your flash. It'll help to fill in the shadows and get you a more even exposure.

In a matter of seconds, the diffused sunlight from the window I was working with turned into this harsh, direct light, destroying the image.

Can't get outside? Position your subject next to a large window or another source of natural light. If possible, turn off other light sources such as overhead light. Can't do that either? At the very least, avoid on-camera flash, and play with your white balance to eliminate unflattering colour casts from the artificial light in your scene. Consider using a tripod, since lower light will probably lead to longer shutter speeds and will introduce the risk of camera shake, which results in blurred photos.

Soft light from a window in another room.

3. Consider your background.

Before you snap your photo, look all around your frame--whether it's your viewfinder, or an LCD screen. Watch for things like trash, or the corner of a piece of furniture, or your cat's tail. Unintended objects in a frame can draw attention away from where you want it, towards where you don't. Keeping your backgrounds clean is one of the quickest ways to improve your photos. Don't be afraid to move things to tidy up your background (or your foreground, for that matter)!

Ugly light, ugly background--is there anything about this picture that is right?

Think about how your background can contribute to or detract from your item. Are you trying to photograph a light blue mitten against white snow? Chances are, you'll lose some details. Try to find something with better contrast. Or are you trying to photograph a winter hat on what is clearly a bright summer day? Try to find a background that looks at least a little more appropriate for cold-weather gear. Avoid backgrounds that are visually busy; you want the focus on your subject, not your surroundings. Instead, choose backgrounds that make sense--backgrounds that somehow relate to the item, and show it off to its best advantage.

Soft light and a clean background. A bit boring, maybe, but a much better representation of the socks.

4. Place your elements intentionally.

Don't just centre your item in the frame and then snap the photo. Consider details, such as where limbs start and end (in a modeled shoot), or whether something might look better off to one side. Are you too far away from your subject, leaving it small in the frame? Move closer, or zoom in. Are you missing just one small portion of your subject, or feel like there's no breathing space around it? Move further away, or zoom out. If you're including props, consider where you want to place them. Don't obscure the best details of your design by placing the prop in between the details and the camera.

Consider also whether a horizontal or a vertical orientation is most appropriate. Often this will be obvious; if the item is wider than it is tall, it will generally work better in horizontal (landscape) orientation; if the item is taller than it is wide, it will generally work better in vertical (portrait) orientation. If you're not sure, take a few shots in both orientations and decide later, when you can see your images on your much larger computer screen. And even if the orientation seems obvious, consider shooting a few snaps in the other direction anyway--you might surprise yourself with what works.

Basically, everything in the frame should be in the frame, and in a specific location in the frame, because you intend for it to be there. Obviously this isn't always possible, but it should be the goal.

5. Use props wisely.

A photo can be greatly improved by the inclusion of some props, but these props should make sense. For example, placing a lace shawl on a table next to some fine jewellery makes sense; placing that same shawl next to a frying pan probably doesn't! You might want to style a pair of hands in mittens, and having those hands hold a snowball or a Christmas ornament would look great, but you probably want to avoid having them hold a popsicle!

Okay, it's a cute enough teddy, I guess, but why is it there?

Those examples are obvious, but there are more nuanced pitfalls, too. For instance, if you're positioning a knit item with some knitting-related items, you might want to avoid placing scissors in the shot. Maybe it's just a personal thing (and I know we use scissors near finished items all the time, to trim ends and so on), but seeing scissors next to a beautiful knit object always makes me cringe just a little, and worry that something will accidentally be destroyed. Likewise, lit candles near knitting make me just a little nervous. This is more a matter of personal taste, but I think it is something to be at least conscious of when planning your images.

6. Tell a story.

You definitely want to focus on the design itself, but if you can include an element of story, your pictures will be more compelling--encouraging your viewers to focus on them for longer. Maybe you can relate your subject's surroundings to your pattern name. Maybe you can display a shawl on someone pictured preparing for a fancy night out. Maybe your blanket can be shown on someone lounging with a mug and a book. Emotional involvement makes for a more compelling photo!

Shampoo bottles and a towel make sense with a washcloth, and bring to mind a day at the spa.

7. Learn basic post-processing.

You don't have to be a whiz, but the ability to do some basic adjustments to your photo can be immensely helpful in improving image quality. Make sure your horizons are straight, and anything that should be vertical is vertical. Is your white balance correct? Could your image benefit from a bit of sharpening (but don't go overboard, and don't bother trying to fix a blurred or out of focus image--it won't work)? Maybe you need to bump up the saturation a bit? Does your model have a pimple in the middle of her forehead that's attracting attention away from your beautiful hat?

Processing matters!

You don't want your image to look obviously processed, but sometimes doing a bit of post-processing work can make your photo look closer to your original vision, or can simply make it more attractive or eye-catching. You may not love investing the time to learn new software, but it will almost always pay off.

What has made the most difference in improving your photos? Where do you still need to do some work? What tips do you have for your fellow fibre artists? Let me know in the comments!

One Skein Photo Challenge: 14/52

Here we are in week 14 of my one skein photo challenge. Nothing spectacular this week, but the point was to explore: I didn't know quite what was going to happen when I put the yarn behind glass and bounceded the flash in different directions, so I figured it out. This is the best of the bunch.

232mm, 1/100 @ f/5.6, ISO 400, flash manually adjusted and bounced
Hope you're having a good weekend!

Raw Processing: Introduction to darktable

As I mentioned in a recent post, I use the program darktable for the bulk of my raw file development (and I plan to use it for file management, when I get around to actually, y'know, managing my files). I thought I'd give a brief overview of the program for those who might be interested in getting a taste of it without committing to an installation, or those who have recently installed it and find themselves completely lost.

 
darktable for Windows: lighttable
This is something like what you'll see when you open darktable, provided you have imported files into the program already. This is the lighttable section of the program.

On the left panel, you have options to import files and folders, view imported images (filtered in a variety of ways depending upon user instructions), see recently used collections of images, and see the image information (such as EXIF data and file location) for the photo you have selected in the central panel.

In the centre panel, you'll see a variety of images. The particular images you will see will depend upon the selections you make in the left panel. You can further filter the displayed images with options at the top and bottom of the panel. Also in this centre area are display options and access to global preferences (click the wheel icon).

(Quick tip: if you hover your mouse over a photo in the centre panel and hold down z on your keyboard, the photo will be enlarged until you release z. If you hover your mouse over photo and hold ctrl+z, the photo will be enlarged with indications over all areas that darktable detects as being in focus.)

In the right panel you'll find a variety of functions, such as tagging options (for file management), styles (similar to Adobe Lightroom presets; these provide preconfigured edits to selected images), metadata editing, and export options (to convert edited raw files to image files).

The lighttable is used mainly for file management and export; you won't typically perform edits in this area except, perhaps, for batch processing with styles (but I don't recommend this approach).

If you want to edit an individual raw file, you have two options: you can double-click on it, or you can select it and then click on "darkroom" to the top right of window. Either way, you'll be taken to the darkroom.

darktable for Windows: darkroom

The darkroom is where the real magic happens. Here you can take control over the appearance of your final image through a seemingly endless (and, therefore, initially intimidating) choice of tool modules.

At the centre of the screen, you'll see the image you are editing. At the bottom of the screen, you'll see thumbnails of other images, which can be double-clicked for quick editing access. Between the main screen and the film strip of images is a narrow bar with several icons; these include, on the left, quick access to presets and styles, and on the right, over- and under-exposure warning toggles, and soft-proofing and gamut checking toggles (full disclosure: I have only the faintest idea what the latter two toggles are used for).

The left panel of the screen holds a number of drop-down modules. Snapshots allows you take a quick grab of your image at a given point in the editing process, and later compare that snapshot to the edited image as it currently stands. The history module shows all of the edits you have made to the raw file. These edits are stored in an XMP sidecar file--what this means, in simple terms, is that no edits are made to the original file itself; this is why darktable is described as a nondestructive editor. You will probably notice that even if you have opened a file for the very first time, there will be some items listed in the history module; this is because darktable applies certain basic adjustments automatically. Under the history module are a global colour picker module, a tagging module, an image information module, and a mask editor module. The mask editor module allows you to manage masks that you have used to apply local edits to particular areas of your image (versus applying the edits to the entire image).

The right panel of the darktable is where most of your work takes place. At the top of the panel, you'll see the histogram for your image, as well as some basic image information. There are various options for how the histogram is displayed, and if you wish, you can perform some very basic edits on your image by dragging either side of the histogram. Under the histogram are seven icons, linking you to various groups of editing modules. In the above example, you can see the basic group (accessed by clicking the plain circle icon), with the base curve module expanded. At the bottom of the panel you will see an area labeled 'more modules'; here you can control which modules are displayed for easy access, which modules are hidden, and which modules are included in your favourites section.

So that is a very basic overview of darktable, quite possibly using some incorrect terminology (the darktable user manual, for example, uses panels to refer to areas such as the history stack and the mask manager rather than to the different areas of the screen). Interested in learning more? Keep an eye on this site, or delve further into the manual by clicking here.

darktable is nondestructive, free, and open-source, and available for a variety of operating systems (chances are pretty good that yours is one of them). It was designed by photographers, for photographers--and in my experience, the photographers' influence is easily seen in all of its functions. Check it out if you like how it looks!

One Skein Photo Challenge: 13/52

This officially marks the completion of one-quarter of my one skein photo challenge! Hard to believe, since that means we're also about a quarter of the way through 2018.

This week I wanted to do a different take on my photo from week 2. Struggling with new ideas? Who, me? Maybe a little. I also pushed the development a bit in darktable to get something more interesting. Nothing radical, mind you, just retrieving some of the colour and feel.

24mm, 1/5 sec @ f/5.6, ISO 1600
Happy Easter (a bit early)!

Raw Processing and Conversion Software

So perhaps you've decided to shoot in raw. You'll need to process your raw files, and to do that, you'll need some specialised software. But what software should you use? Here are some options (not a complete list; merely some of the more popular programs. For more options, click here). N.b.: None of these links are affiliate links. I make no money if you click on them, nor if you make any purchases.

One file. Four versions. No destruction. No change to the original. That's the power of raw.

Paid Software
N.b.: I have not personally used any paid raw processing software, so I cannot comment on the quality of any of these programs.

Adobe Lightroom - this is the software that you will most commonly hear about. I would guess that most professional photographers use Lightroom for their raw file processing. Adobe currently offers a photography subscription package for US$9.99 per month for a year, which will get you both Lightroom and Photoshop (another powerful editing program) plus 20GB of cloud storage, as well as a Lightroom plan for the same price, which will get you access to Lightroom plus 1TB of cloud storage. Lightroom also offers file management functions. If you want access to lots of books, tutorials, and presets, and you're willing to pay a bit of money, this is probably your best bet.

Capture One - this is another piece of software used by many photography professionals. Unlike Lightroom, it does not operate on a subscription model. A free 30-day trial is available.

DxO PhotoLab - again, this software is used by many photography professionals and does not operate on a subscription model. It offers two editions, Essential Edition and ELITE Edition, as well as a free trial.

Free Software

darktable - this is my current choice of software for raw development. darktable is a powerful program that allows for file management and image processing, as well as select other functions. darktable has a significant learning curve, but I personally find the interface to be reasonably intuitive, and there is a wide variety of available tools. darktable lacks somewhat in existing tutorials; nonetheless, I have found that Lightroom tutorials will often translate reasonably well into darktable. Note that darktable offers global as well as local editing (i.e., you can make changes to the entire image or to particular areas of it); I find this flexibility very important in my own workflow. darktable will probably be the raw software I most often discuss on this blog.

RawTherapee - another popular free file management and raw development program. RawTherapee is powerful and fairly intuitive, and it supports most raw formats, as well as common image formats (e.g., JPEG and TIFF). Unlike darktable, RawTherapee does not support local editing; edits are applied to the entire image (with a few exceptions).

LightZone - an interesting piece of software based on photography master Ansel Adams's Zone System. LightZone operates a bit differently than most other raw processors, and may therefore suit some users who are unhappy with other options. I used LightZone until I had difficulties with how it rendered some of my photographs; I was unable to find support for my particular issue (I suspect it was camera-related) and reluctantly abandoned it in favour of darktable. LightZone also supports JPEG editing and offers batch-processing options for efficient workflow.

Other

Many camera companies offer their own raw processing and conversion programs. These are certainly worth looking at. They may not be as powerful as some of the other options, but they are typically free (provided you own one of their cameras) and are often sufficient for the average user's needs. I personally used Canon's Digital Photo Professional until I decided I wanted something more powerful, and I was reasonably pleased by the results (which include many of the earlier images posted on this blog).

Other editing programs such as Adobe Photoshop (paid) and GIMP (free) offer limited raw support. If you prefer to do all of your image editing in one program, and/or you are already familiar with one of these programs, you may wish to determine whether its raw editing functions are adequate for your needs.

Go forth and raw!

One Skein Photo Challenge: 12/52

Almost a quarter of the way through my one skein photo challenge! This week, I wanted to play with backlighting to give myself more practice with exposing for backlit subjects. Behold, my filthy basement window (some horrific dirt has been edited out)!

36mm, 1/40 @ f/8.0, ISO 400
Happy knitting! Happy shooting!

What the Heck is Raw, and Should I Use It?

If you spend much time exposed to photography talk, you'll soon start to hear the term "raw" bandied about (and you'll probably hear some strong opinions about how shooting raw is the best thing since sliced bread--or perhaps since plied yarn--or, alternatively, how it's a big waste of time and hard drive space). But what is raw?

A raw file, unlike a JPEG, is not an image. Rather, a raw file contains the information necessary to create an image. The information it contains was obtained at the time the particular photograph was made. Raw is often referred to as a digital negative since it is not usable without processing. The great advantage of a raw file is that it contains all of the information collected by the sensor when the photograph was taken. A JPEG, on the other hand, has compressed and discarded a significant portion of this data. This makes the raw file much more flexible than its processed counterpart. Raw files are also edited non-destructively, which means that you can do pretty much whatever you want to them without causing a decrease in the file quality (and you can't accidentally do something awful to your image and then save over the original, forever ruining it!). Basically, when you edit a raw file, you're just telling it how to display (and eventually create) the image it holds information about, without actually altering the file data. JPEGs, on the other hand, tend to degrade whenever you edit them, and because they have less information to begin with, you are more limited in the edits you can make.

Developing a raw file using darktable for Windows

More data, more flexibility, and non-destructive editing--sounds great, right? Unfortunately, there are a few disadvantages to shooting raw. First, raw files are significantly larger than JPEG files, so they will take up more space on your memory card (in camera) and your computer (after transfer) than the corresponding JPEG. Second, raw files require processing with specialised software. Processing will require additional time in your workflow (although once you are familiar with your raw processor, it can be quite fast), and many raw processors have a significant learning curve. If you don't get to know your raw processor well, your images may not look as good after processing as they would have if you'd just let your camera do all the work in the first place. Third, if you want to shoot many images in quick succession, shooting raw will limit you, because the larger files take up more space in the camera buffer.

So should you, as a fibre artist, shoot in raw? Ultimately, it's your decision, but here are some questions to consider:
  • Does your camera even let you shoot raw? Many--and perhaps even most--do, but check your manual if you're not sure. If not, you're stuck with JPEG.
  • Are you willing to learn to use a new piece of software? If not, stick with JPEG.
  • Do you have very limited storage space for your image files? If so, you probably want to stick with JPEG.
  • Are you interested in photography beyond your fibre art needs? If so, consider raw.
  • Do you typically edit your JPEG files? If so, consider raw.
  • Do you often forget to set your white balance in camera? If so, consider raw--you can change it when you develop your raw file without degrading your image.
  • Do you frequently mess up your exposure, or shoot in uneven lighting conditions or with a broad dynamic range? If so, consider raw--you'll be able to recover a lot of extra image data.
  • Do you want the highest possible image quality? If so, shoot raw.
  • Are you just curious what all the fuss is about? Try raw!
Still undecided, not so confident in your processing abilities, or generally happy with your out-of-camera images yet occasionally wish you had more flexibility? If you have enough storage space, consider shooting raw + JPEG. This gives you the best of both worlds--JPEG files that are ready to go, but raw files that can be edited to your heart's content if you so desire. When I first started shooting raw, this was the method I chose. Now that I'm more comfortable with raw processing, I typically shoot only in raw because I like to develop my own images, although I do sometimes make exceptions for various reasons.

Earlier in my foray into raw processing, I used Canon's proprietary raw development software, Digital Photo Professional [DPP]. One of its benefits is that (as far as I can tell), your starting point for editing your raw file is the same as the JPEG you would have gotten out of your camera. Personally, I now find DPP rather limiting, but it was a nice way for me to ease into developing raw files. If you don't shoot a Canon camera you won't be able to use DPP, but you may want to look into whether your camera brand has its own raw processing software (most do), and see if you like it.

If you're interested in shooting raw, you can check out my post about raw processing software here. I hope you found this a helpful introduction to raw files. Happy shooting!

One Skein Photo Challenge: 11/52

I can't believe I'm more than 1/5 through my one skein photo challenge (and that means we're more than 1/5 through the year, I think...). This one isn't perfect, but it's close to what I was trying for last week, so I'll count it as a success. Would have done a better edit, but it is late!

37mm, 3.2" @ f/18, ISO 100, manually-fired flash
Cheers!

Ten Signs Your Photography is Improving

I removed a pole from my husband's head while I was shooting him the other day.

Okay, so what I actually did was change my position while taking pictures of him when I realised that there was a telephone pole centred behind his head in the photo, and that not moving would make the final photo look as though he was growing said pole from his head. But it happened on a day when I was feeling particularly discouraged. My photographs were boring, and I was still fumbling with my buttons, and I'd just tried to handhold a shot with too slow a shutter speed for my focal length, because I'd been lazy about changing my settings to match the lens I'd just put on my camera.

Removing that telephone pole gave me hope, because seeing it in the first place means that I'm seeing better now than I was a few weeks ago. A few weeks ago, all of my photos would have had that pole growing out of his head, rather than only the first few.

Progress in photography is sometimes, but not always, visible in your photographs. So what are some ways to know that you're growing in your craft? Here are ten (but there are many more).

1. Your photos look better.

This one doesn't need much explanation. Your photos look better because you're better, and you rely less on luck.

154mm; 1/250 @ f/5.6, ISO 1600
It's not perfect, but a few months ago, I would not have seen this shot.

2. Your photos look worse.

This isn't always a sign of growth, but it certainly can be. Maybe your photos look worse because you're starting to take more control over your camera settings. Maybe you're experimenting with angles instead of sticking to what's safe. Maybe you're using a new lens with a new focal length, and you're not used to its effects on your photos. Maybe you're shooting Raw and working on your Raw developing/post-processing skills. Whatever the reason, your photos might look a whole lot worse shortly before they start to look a whole lot better.

3. Your photos look like you expect them to look.

If you can envision your shot before you take it, and the shot you take looks like your vision, you are well on your way to mastering photography (but maybe it's time to experiment with a new focal length or a new technique some of the time).

4. You notice objects in the background and edges of your frame before you shoot.

We're really good at seeing only our subject, and ignoring detritus and distractions. Learning to see like a photographer includes looking at every corner of the frame and deciding which elements you want to include and exclude. Fewer shots with distractions in the corners or with trees growing out of people's heads demonstrates progress!

5. You crop less.

This is related to the previous two points. If you know what your photo will look like, and you have excluded unwanted elements from the frame, you'll find yourself having to crop your image much less frequently. You'll get the framing right in camera instead.

250mm; 1/320 @ f/5.6, ISO 2000
Framed exactly how I wanted it in camera.

6. You are able to offer more detailed critiques of photos.

Part of seeing is being able to see elements within the final shot--whether it's your photo or another person's. When you start to be able to see why a photo works or doesn't, including little things like a distracting blob of colour in the background or a nuanced use of supplementary light, you'll also be better at seeing these things through your lens and adjusting--or not--accordingly.

194mm; 1/500 @ f/5.6, ISO 2000
I am now able to see how much stronger this shot would have been if I'd shifted an inch or two to the right.

7. You think more before you shoot.

You don't just "spray and pray". You think about what you want to capture, what angle might best allow you to do so, and perhaps even whether it's worth pressing the shutter button. Basically, you weed out a lot of your shots before you even take them (but don't go overboard on this! Taking "sketch images", as David duChemin calls them, is usually an important part of the process).

171mm; 1/500 @ f/5.6, ISO 2000
Intentionally isolated against a simple background after carefully considering multiple angles.

8. You adjust your settings with intentionality.

You choose to shoot with a certain aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, rather than just letting them happen. You consider what metering mode might be the most helpful. You decide which autofocus mode best suits your needs, or you switch to manual focus if your camera is struggling. Your camera is there to serve your vision, rather than to confuse you.

9. You think about the light in your shot.

You consider where the light is coming from and how that will affect your subject. You judge whether the light is hard or soft, and you plan your shot accordingly. You consider whether the light suits your purpose, or if you need to change it in some way.

10. You modify the light in your shot.

You're in a situation with light that doesn't meet your needs--so you change it. You move your subject to shade. You add light with a reflector or a flash. You flag the light. Basically, you make the light do what you want it to do, instead of simply doing what it's already doing.

How have you known that your photography was improving? What improvement are you seeing right now?

One Skein Photo Challenge: 10/52

This week's one skein photo challenge was a bit of a failure, but I learned a lot about light in the process. I almost had it figured out when I was interrupted by a roaming toddler (not the one who poured juice on my laptop last night...). Maybe I'll get it right next time. I think it's as valuable to post my failures as it is to post my wins.

35mm; 5.0" @ f/7.1, ISO 400, manually pulsed flash



One Skein Photo Challenge: 8/52; 9/52

Still coughing up a storm, but back in the saddle for my one skein photo challenge. Not happy with any of the things I tried this week, but I suppose that's the nature of the beast. They generated some ideas, at least; I just didn't have time to execute the newer, possibly better, ideas. But maybe it's a valuable exercise anyway, to get from here to there.

Two photos to make up for last week's sick days. Playing with focus. Intentionally unfocused (manual) in the first shot. Intentional camera motion blur in the second shot--panning a still subject with a long exposure, although you can't see much of the motion.

50mm, 1/50, f/1.8, ISO 1600

50mm, 1", f/6.3, ISO 400